Sketching Johor Bahru #1

February 1, 2014

rumah merahMinguu, mendung, 26C, tetapi berasa banyak yang lebih panas kerana 100 % kelembapan. Melawat beberapa penjaja lama terutamanya di sepanjang Jalan Tan Hiok Nee, salah satu daripada jalan-jalan yang tertua JB dengan banyak pra-perang bangunan gaya kolonial, penuh dengan kedai-kedai menarik, penjual dan kafe luar. Jalan batu buntar selari dengan Selat dan bersebelahan dengan titik yang paling dekat sambungan ke Singapura melalui Tambak Johor. Mengambil pertengahan pagi kopi Haianese, telur rebus lembut dan roti bakar Perancis pada Hau Mui, beberapa Bengali karipap kambing yang penuh dengan kerak flakey di Salahuddin Bakery, beroperasi sejak tahun 1937. Terpaksa lakarkan “Rumah Merah” yang terkenal di sudut Jln Pahang dan Jln Tan Hiok Nee mana acara kebudayaan dan seni dipentaskan. Pada No.52 , Old Street Studio adalah tempat potret lakaran komersial. Jalan ini dinamakan sempena seorang pedagang Cina tempatan penting yang menjadi seorang pegawai penting dengan gelaran Kapitan Cina atau ‘ Major Cina’ pada tahun 1870, kira-kira 15 tahun yang singkat selepas Johor Bahru dibina sehingga menjadi pusat pentadbiran bagi pemerintah berdaulat (dan berikutnya kemasukan pendatang Cina ) daripada dahulunya sebuah perkampungan nelayan Melayu yang rendah hati.

johor bahru 1johor bahru 2johor bahru 3

Sunday, cloudy and overcast. 26C but feels a lot hotter due to 100% humidity. Visiting some of the old hawkers mainly along Jalan Tan Hiok Nee, one of JB’s oldest streets with lots of pre-war Colonial-style buildings, full of quaint shops, vendors and outdoor cafes. The cobblestone road runs parallel to the Straits and is adjacent to the closest point of connection to Singapore via the Johor Causeway. Took mid-morning Haianese coffee, soft boiled egg and French toast at Hau Mui, some lamb-filled Bengali curry puffs with flakey crust at Salahuddin Bakery, operating since 1937. Had to sketch the famous “Red House” at number 56, on the corner of Jln Pahang and Jln Tan Hiok Nee, where cultural and art events are staged. The 19th-century building was originally owned by an Indian family; note the beautiful kerawang design of the gold ventilation panels above the doors and windows. At No.52, Old Street Studio is a commercial portrait-sketching venue, spilling onto the pavement at night with finished work gracing the walls inside. The street is named after an important local Chinese trader who became an important official with the title of Kapitan Cina or ‘Major Chinese’ in 1870, some short 15 years after Johor Bahru was built up into an administrative centre for the sovereign ruler (and ensuing influx of Chinese immigrants) from formerly being a humble Malay fishing village.




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